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From - Harold Reynolds' Humor
Collection
Cat Rules...
1. INTRODUCTION
The following is a manual of guidelines for the busy Cat(s) who will have a
house to manage after adopting one or more humans. It is, of course, impossible
to cover all possible situations, as those humans are always up to some sort of
mischief, but the compiler and contributors to this guide have endeavored to
cover as wide a variety of topics as possible. It is important that this
document be kept out of the hands of humans, who will undoubtedly find a way
to use it to their advantage.
2. FOOD
In order to get the energy to sleep, play, and Hamper, a Cat must eat.
Eating, however, is only half the fun. The other half is getting the food. Cats
have two ways to obtain food: convincing a human you are starving to death and
must be fed *NOW*; and hunting for it oneself. The following are some guidelines
for getting fed.
When the humans are eating, make sure you leave the tip of your tail in
their dishes when they are not looking.
Never eat food from your own bowl if you can steal some from the table.
Never drink from your own water bowl if a human's glass is full enough
to drink from. If a human catches you at it and chases you away, run back as
soon as his back is turned and drink some more (unless he tossed the water
into the sink, of course). See also WATER.
The best times to inform humans of your dish's emptiness are when they
are unable to ignore you, such as when they are sleeping or on the toilet,
or you are in one's lap. If you insist on waking a human at what it
considers a "ridiculously early hour" for breakfast (as with the Early
Breakfast CAT CLUB), be warned that
the human may be as likely to throw you outside or in the basement as to
feed you. See WAKING THEM UP. If you
are installed in a lap, be extra friendly with purring and head-butting. As
soon as you have the human's attention, leap off and run to your dish,
meowing to make sure you are noticed.
Should you catch something of your own outside, it is only polite to
attempt to get to know it. Be insistent--your food will usually not be so
polite and will try to leave. If you can't be bothered to eat the food
you've just caught, be considerate and don't waste it; it makes a perfect
gift for humans! Carefully pick it up and carry it to the human's house and,
if the door is closed, leave it on the doorstep. If the door is open, or
there is a Cat-door, take it inside and leave it somewhere highly visible.
The gift will be even more welcome if it is still alive! Live birds and mice
make the best gifts as humans love a good game of chase just as much as you
do, although be careful not to help them; it's their gift after all.
Table scraps are delicacies with which the humans are unfortunately
unwilling to readily part. It is beneath the Dignity of a Cat to beg
outright for food as lower forms of life such as dogs will, but several
techniques exist for ensuring that the humans don't forget you exist. These
include, but are not limited to: jumping onto the lap of the "softest" human
and purring loudly; lying down in the doorway between the dining room and
the kitchen, the Direct Stare, twining around people's legs as they sit and
eat while meowing plaintively, and resting your paws on the human's leg and
meowing to remind them you're still interested.
Coffee is known to be rejuvenating for both Cats and humans. Whenever a
human sets a cup of coffee on the floor within your reach, s/he is showing
you great respect and worship. Softly blow the divine liquid until cool (you
may even put your paw in it to make sure the temperature is just right) and
then daintily drink it.
Occasionally there will be disagreements over what you and the humans
will deem as edible. The appropriate action, should the stuff in question be
too repulsive to ignore, is to bury it. Scratch at the floor and try to drag
over objects to cover the offending item. This informs the ignorant human
that it really belongs in the litter box.
2.1 CATNIP
Most Cats think that this strange-looking plant is Food of the Gods and
better even than tuna. There are some, however, who are sadly deprived of
the ability to enjoy this wonderful treat and will look upon the others with
a mixture of confusion and disgust at the utter lack of Dignity of those
partaking. If you are one of the latter, please skip to the next section.
Catnip is available in two forms--in the wild as an odd-looking plant
that grows in delightfully fragrant, though often rather flattened, patches,
and from the humans in a concentrated dried form. Unfortunately, the humans
know of our weakness for catnip and will try to hold it out from us, often
employing some very ingenious methods to do so. If the humans are careless
enough to leave any catnip within reach, it is imperative to get it no
matter what you have to tear apart to do so. Otherwise the humans will use
it to attempt to coerce us to do things which would otherwise be beneath us.
The greatest hazard of catnip is that it causes those Cats under its
influence to utterly lose their Dignity. They roll around foolishly, purr at
maximum volume, tear around the house at top speed, and do other things no
sane Cat would be caught doing. Do attempt to control yourself, especially
if your humans have a "video camera" and are prone to using it.
3. WATER
Water (also known as 'Cat Solvent') would be really great if it wasn't so
*WET*! Dripping taps are the best sources of fresh water in the whole house.
Toilets are the next best (but the water inside must be COLORLESS and
contain NOTHING!) Therefore it is imperative that any sound of running water
be immediately investigated in case a free drink may be obtained. The
bathtub is the best place to lurk in the bathroom when a human is present. A
plaintive meow or two and perhaps hopefully licking the faucet usually will
get most humans to turn on the tap for you. If the bathroom door is closed,
demand entry noisily. The water dish is to be used only as a last resort in
case the humans leave the toilet lid down and the tub and sink are dry.
If a human has a sufficiently wide-mouthed glassful of liquid,
immediately stick your face into the glass. If the opening is too narrow,
dip your paw into the liquid, swirl it around, and give it the taste test.
You may be pleasantly surprised to find beer or even milk! In any case, if
the liquid is good, continue to sample, but only while your human is
distracted. Some of the best water is ornamented with those cold, hard
buoyant cubes that bob up and down in the liquid when pressed lightly. If
your human protests, lick the condensation on the outside of the glass.
4. SLEEPING
As mentioned above, in order to have enough energy for playing, a Cat
must get plenty of sleep. It is generally not difficult to find a
comfortable place to curl up. Any place a human likes to sit is good,
especially if it contrasts with your fur color. If it's in a sunbeam or near
a heating duct or radiator, so much the better. Of course, good places also
exist outdoors, but have the disadvantages of being seasonal and dependent
on current and previous weather conditions such as rain. Open windows are a
good compromise.
A) Snoring is not a talent unique to humans - if the Cat is
sharing a bed with two humans, the well skilled Cat can cause one of the
humans to be blamed/swatted/smacked for the deed by the other.
B) If your humans don't let you into the bedroom at night, make
them suffer for it. Even if they give you a nice warm room of your own to
sleep in at night, with a Cat-door to the outside world, that just isn't
good enough. There are several ways of registering your disapproval.
Trash the room they give you to sleep in. After all, the humans
don't sleep in it - so why should you?
Fight noisily with other Cats in the neighborhood, just outside
their bedroom window. Make sure that you appear in the morning with as
many fresh scars as possible. Spend some time perfecting an aggrieved
"Well, I wouldn't have all these injuries if you only let me sleep in
the bedroom at night" expression.
When they finally rise and take a shower or a bath, locate the
appropriate drainpipe and yowl up it. That amplified and disembodied
"Meow" is sure to surprise them - as is the length of time you can do
this without getting hoarse.
When they finally come downstairs, and call for you, refuse to use
the Cat-door to enter the house. There's a perfectly good front door
they can open. Of course, if they should anticipate you by opening the
front door and calling, ignore them. You should only appear by the front
door and yowl once they've closed it again.
5. PLAY
This is an important part of your life. Get enough sleep in the daytime
so you are fresh for your nocturnal games. Below are listed several favorite
Cat games that you can play. It is important though to maintain one's
Dignity at all times. If you should have an accident during play, such as
falling off a chair, immediately wash a part of your body as if to say "I
MEANT to do that!" It fools those humans every time.
5.1 GAMES
Catch Mouse: The humans would have you believe that those lumps
under the covers are their feet and hands. They are lying. They are actually
Bed Mice, rumored to be the most delicious of all the mice in the world,
though no Cat has ever been able to catch one. Rumor also has it that only
the most ferocious attack can stun them long enough for you to dive under
the covers to get them. Maybe YOU can be the first to taste the Bed Mouse!
King of the Hill: This game must be played with at least one
other Cat. The more, the merrier! One or both of the sleeping humans is Hill
303 which must be defended at all costs from the other Cat(s). Anything
goes. This game allows for the development of unusual tactics as one must
take the unstable playing theatre into account.
WARNING: Playing games (1) and (2) to excess will result in expulsion
from the bed and possibly from the bedroom. Should the humans grow restless,
immediately begin purring and cuddle up to them. This should buy you some
time until they fall asleep again. If one happens to be on a human when this
occurs, this Cat wins the round of King of the Hill.
Tag (Also known by humans as "Charge of the Light Brigade"):
Obviously this game also requires two or more Cats, and may include a dog as
well. One Cat is "it". The other(s) chase him around the apartment until
they catch up to him. Then follows the "Scrum", after which the Cat who
caught the other becomes "it" and is chased around. Great fun, but has the
greatest potential for loss of Dignity from maneuvers such as the Throw Rug
Wipeout and the Non-Carpeted Floor Skid. Whenever such a situation occurs,
all feline participants must immediately wash themselves. Dogs are generally
too stupid to do this and may continue to play. In this case, the dog
automatically becomes "it" and should be subjected to the Pileup.
Tube Mouse: This is a game played in the bathroom. Next to the
Big White Drinking Bowl is a roll of soft white paper which is artfully
attached to the wall so that it can spin. Inside this roll is the Tube
Mouse. When you grab the paper, the Tube Mouse will spin frantically as it
tries to escape from you. When the Mouse is exposed, it dies of fright and
stops spinning. But that's OK because you now have a great new toy to pounce
on, play with, and shred! Part two of the game is to make the angry human
believe that the other Cat did it. This is related to another fun game,
"Snowstorm", in which you try to make it look like a blizzard has occurred
in the room. You can track shreds all over the house for greater enjoyment.
Be warned that this variant often results in the coming of the VACUUM
MONSTER.
Fetch: Dogs will run after a ball or stick that humans throw,
take it back to them, and continue doing this until they drop. As
established earlier, dogs are not bright. A dignified Cat MAY fetch a ball
for its human, but if the human persists in continually throwing the ball
away, assume that the human truly does not want it, and leave it. A small
minority of Cats will fetch favorite toys like pipe cleaners, twist ties, or
other small plastic things. They claim it's great exercise and doesn't
deprive them of too much Dignity.
Kibble Soccer: Any number of Cats can play. The game begins when
the referees go to bed. The player runs to the bowl where the dry Cat food
is kept, and executes a "place-kick." The player does this by attempting to
kick one kibble from the bowl with a paw. Using the nose and tongue
("heading") is allowed, but this is considered bad form. Often the bowl must
be tipped, rocked or rattled. Once the kibble is out of the bowl and in
play, the player proceeds to bat it around the room as quickly as possible.
This is accomplished with short alternating swipes with the front paws,
running behind it as it moves (this is also known as the "kibble dribble").
If the kibble gets stuck at the intersection of two walls, the player must
attempt to put it back into play with a "corner kick."
If the kibble is still on the playing field after 30 seconds, the player
is awarded a point. She is then allowed to eat the kibble, after which she
returns to the bowl to put the next one into play. No points are awarded for
kibbles that are kicked out of the playing area (under the stove, behind the
refrigerator, etc.). These are left for the cockroaches, and other
spectators. The player must put a new kibble into play.
For equipment, any dry kibble will work, although Science Diet round
kibbles roll particularly well. The referees control the pace of the game by
waking up (usually after the first few points have been scored) and imposing
obstacles between the player and the kibbles. The referees do this by
placing covers on top of the bowl, placing the bowl on a counter top or
shelf, or otherwise hiding it. An advanced player is measured by the degree
of ingenuity displayed in overcoming the obstacles between herself and the
kibbles and resuming the game.
The game ends when all the kibbles are eaten or out of the playing field,
or when a referee puts the player in the penalty box.
"Rumpus Raising" Step 1: Warm up by tearing through the hallways and over furniture at
high speeds. Be sure to drag your claws and make zzzzzrt noises on the rugs.
Furniture that is off limits during the daytime makes great springboards.
(Even more fun with two or more participants.) Important style points are
gained during this step. 2 extra points if you get a yell from a judge.
Step 2: Find objects that make noise and activate them. Door
stoppers that go SPROOOOOOOONGONGONGONG when you run by them, wind chimes
and blinds that rattle when disturbed, and loose objects that go thud when
they hit the carpet are best. Technical points are awarded in this step. The
more complex the device the better. 5 points for knocking over the phone so
it goes BEEP BEEP BEEP *Please hang up* BEEP BEEP...
Step 3: Make the loudest possible noise. Glassware and remote
controls are useful here. It might be beneficial to slightly open the
judges' door before this step. Final creativity points are awarded now.
Step 4: Look innocently at the dog and fish when the judges storm
into room and turn on the lights. Pretending to be asleep is good form. 5
bonus points if another pet gets blamed, and 7 points for style if the
judges stub, trip or completely fall over the objects knocked over!
Skiing: This game is played when your human has the newspaper
lying on the floor for reading. Run down a hallway toward the newspapers at
full speed, leap onto the paper and see how far you can slide. The slippery
advertisements are best for this. This game is even more fun if your human
is unaware that you are going to play. It can be followed by a good round of
"Catch Mouse" (newspaper variant). It can also be played on throw rugs.
"Magic Curtain": It can take some time to teach the humans this
game, but it is worth the effort. You need a curtain which reaches down to
the floor (vertical Venetian blinds will do). Hide behind the curtain and
command the human to throw a small toy (really a mouse, of course) at it.
The key part is to restrain yourself as long as you can to fool the human
into thinking you aren't going to pounce. When the human reaches for the
toy, attack the toy and kill it. Half the fun is in attacking the "mouse",
the other half is in watching the human jump back to avoid getting his hand
shredded.
Variation 1: Sometimes the curtain or blind itself magically
transforms into a Curtain Monster, which must be killed immediately! Grab
it, kick it with your hind feet, wheel around on your back like mad and tear
as much as you can! The Curtain Monster and the Martians that live behind it
are tough opponents, but with persistence you will be victorious.
Variation 2: You are at the bottom of Mount Everest (the curtain)
and there is a tempting morsel at the top which you must reach before it
runs away. Climb as fast as you can before the morsel disappears and/or a
human grabs you and throws you outside.
"Tunnel": Convince your human to move the couch out a little bit
from the wall, just enough so that you can move between the wall and the
couch. Demand that your human throw a toy (preferably a small ball) for you
to chase. Instead of chasing it through the open room, run behind the couch,
tunnel along, miraculously emerge from the other end and grab the toy. Your
human will be deeply impressed by your sophisticated move, and will readily
throw the toy again and again.
"Snooze": A good game to play with the other Cat(s) in the house
is to see how many different places you can sleep in one day. You mark your
sleeping spot with an appropriate deposit of hair, which is a necessary part
of any Cat-owned apartment. It is important to play this game at least
weekly, since the humans are always removing the markers. Bonus points go to
the unusual spots, like the top of the fridge, TV, or air conditioner, and
even on top of the Vacuum Monster slumbering in its closet. Of course, if
the Vacuum Monster should awaken while you're sleeping on it, there will be
potentially serious consequences!
"Cupboards": As you will have noticed in your explorations of
your household, the floor-level kitchen cupboards are all interconnected.
The object of the game is to dart inside when a human opens a cupboard door
and immediately make your way to the farthest reaches out of range of the
human's grasp. If you can get a partner to run it with you to divide the
human's attention, so much the better. Often you can open the doors yourself
and don't even need the human there. This skill is especially useful if
there are some tasty treats being stored in the garbage can that you want.
If the human gives up easily, you now have a nice safe dark place to curl
up, snooze, and deposit hair. Humans love to wash their pots and pans before
using them. If the humans keep the garbage can under the sink, you may also
have a free meal or two if anything is worth eating (provided you can get
into it). If you and your partner are feeling frisky, great wrestling
matches can take place in the darkness, with lots of crashes and clangs to
make it sound like the Tournament of the Century! More fun can be had by
scooting back and forth and putting your paw under the door and meowing to
let the human think you want out that door, but when the door is opened, run
to another before you can get grabbed. If the human is prone to flushing you out with a squirt bottle, make as much
of a mess as possible when making your escape to let him/her know your
displeasure. Be sure to wash yourself upon exiting the kitchen to retain
your Dignity and glower at the impudent human while doing so.
5.2 TOYS
Any small item is a potential toy. If a human tries to confiscate it,
this means that it is a Good Toy. Run with it under the bed. Look suitably
outraged when the human grabs you and takes it away anyway. Watch where it
is put so you can steal it later. Two reliable sources of toys are dresser
tops and wastebaskets. Below are listed several types of Cat toys.
Bright shiny things like keys, brooches or coins should be hidden so
that the other Cat(s) or humans can't play with them. They are generally
good for playing hockey with on uncarpeted floors.
Dangly and/or string-like things such as shoelaces, cords, gold chains
and dental floss also make excellent toys. They are favorites of humans who
like to drag them across the floor for us to pounce on. When a string is
dragged under a newspaper or throw rug, it magically becomes the Paper/Rug
Mouse and should be killed at all costs. Take care, though. Humans are
sneaky and will try to make you lose your Dignity. Note that playing with
shoelaces when the human is trying to tie them is another form of Hampering.
Within paper bags dwell the Bag Mice. They are small and camouflaged to
be the same color as the bag, so they are hard to see, but you can easily
hear the crinkling noises they make as they scurry around the bag. Anything,
up to and including shredding the bag, can be done to kill them. Note: any
other Cat you may find in a bag hunting for Bag Mice is fair game for a
Sneak Attack, which will usually result in a great Tag match.
A somewhat risky approach to catching Bag Mice utilizes the Bag Slide.
This is accomplished by performing a classic crouch (including full
butt-wiggle) 5-6 feet from the mouth of the bag, then charging into the bag
at full speed, causing the bag to skitter a great distance across a wooden
floor (Note: This does NOT work on wall-to-wall carpet!) CAUTION: Be
prepared for a significant impact with walls, chairs, etc. if you've really
built up your momentum!
Ignore anything that appears to be a store-bought Cat toy. After all, in
the old days, Cats had to fashion their own toys. Store-bought toys are an
affront to a "real" Cat. However, if the toy appears to be interesting, you
may wait until the humans are sleeping before you play with it (but be sure
to keep quiet so they don't figure out you actually like it).
Some cats find ice cubes to be great toys, as they can slide across
smooth floors for great distances. Ice cubes can only be obtained from the
freezer (it is *not* recommended that you try to fish any from drinks!) if
you pester a human while he/she is getting something from it. Once the new
toy is released into your custody, it's play time! Be careful not to lick it
though as you may find it sticks to your tongue!
Your human is more likely than not to have other humans come to visit.
Sometimes they will all just sit around and talk, which is great because you
have the opportunity to get lots of extra attention. However, sometimes
they'll set up some sort of game and start playing, which is not so great
because they aren't noticing you. Many human games (and all jigsaw puzzles)
have lots of little pieces, and are really Cat Toy Bonanzas, but the humans
will not want to share them with you for some reason.
If they are playing on the floor, rectification of this injustice is
relatively straightforward. You can charge across the board scattering
pieces everywhere and snatch one in the confusion. The subtle approach,
where you act really friendly to one of the humans so you can get close to
the board and then snitch one, requires more patience. If you have a partner
who can create a diversion, say by running across the board as in the first
case, you can then zip in during the uproar and snitch a piece while the
humans are distracted. A third option is to just plop yourself down in the
middle of the board and say "Pet me!". With luck, a piece or two will get
stuck in your fur (especially if you're long-haired) and you will have a new
toy when you're ejected from the board.
Playing on a table presents a greater challenge, as the board is much
more inaccessible. Try ingratiating yourself by curling up on a lap, and
occasionally sticking your head over the table edge to see what's going on
and perhaps try to knock a piece or two off the table with a paw. Jumping on
the table is risky but potentially rewarding, as the humans may not expect
such chutzpah (or chutzpaw in your case). If a corner of the game board
extends over the table edge, you can stand on your hind legs and reach for
it; if successful you could bring a whole avalanche of toys down!
Unfortunately, all of these actions are liable to make the humans very
angry, so you'd better have a safe place to run with your toy, unless you're
a Hedonist and enjoy playing fast and loose with your life by baiting
the humans. This activity also counts as hampering.
6. SUPERVISING (a.k.a. HAMPERING)
It is well known that humans are incapable of performing even the simplest of
tasks without feline supervision and/or assistance. This supervision is absurdly
known by the humans as "Hampering". If one of your humans is engaged in some
close activity and any others are idle, stay with the busy one. It would take a
large book to describe all of the activities which need to be supervised, so
only a condensed list is presented below.
When supervising cooking, sit just behind the left heel of the cook. You
cannot be seen and thereby stand a better chance of being stepped on and
then picked up and comforted.
For book readers, get in close under the chin, between eyes and book,
unless you can lie across the book itself.
For television watchers, be sure to settle down in their laps just
before a commercial break when they're most likely to want to get up and do
something.
For knitting projects or paperwork, lie on the work in the most
appropriate manner so as to obscure the maximum amount, or at least the most
important part. Pretend to doze, but every so often reach out and slap the
pencil or knitting needles. The worker may try to distract you; ignore it.
Remember, the aim is to Hamper work. Embroidery and needlepoint projects
make great hammocks in spite of what the humans may tell you.
For people paying bills (monthly activity) or working on income taxes or
Christmas cards (annual activity), keep in mind the aim: to Hamper! First,
sit on the paper being worked on. When dislodged, watch sadly from the side
of the table. When activity proceeds nicely, roll around on the papers,
scattering them to the best of your ability. After being removed for the
second time, push pens, pencils, and erasers off the table, one at a time.
Speaking of Christmas, this annual event presents many opportunities to
Hamper. When the human is trying to wrap presents, go for the Paper Mice
which hide under the wrapping paper that is on the floor. Do your best to
shred their hiding places. Ribbons also make great toys! Be sure to attack
the loose ends as the humans struggle to wrap their presents in spite of
you. If there are any bows, try to steal them and run under the bed with
them. If the human does not give chase (thinking he/she will "sacrifice" one
for the sake of peace and quiet), go back and steal another! Snitch the gift
tags before the human can put them on the presents, or for more fun, after
they put them on. Watch out for sneaky distraction tricks like putting
Scotch tape in your fur! Climbing up and lurking in the Christmas tree is
also fun (though beware the sticky sap that some have) and makes for a good
hiding place, provided you can stay still and not knock off any ornaments.
Tinsel garlands make great toys (but not good food). Ornaments are not such
great toys, however, because they break into lots of sharp pieces which can
cut your feet (not to mention incite yelling fits in the humans).
When a human is holding the newspaper in front of him/her, be sure to
jump at the back of the paper. They love surprises.
As often as possible, dart quickly and as close as possible in front of
the human, especially: on stairs; when they have something in their arms; in
the dark; and when they first get up in the morning. This will help their
coordination skills.
Always sleep on the human at night so s/he cannot move around. See the
Bed Hog Club under CAT CLUBS for a
suggestion.
When a human is attempting to "make the bed", hop on it and curl up in
the middle, or pounce on the sheet the human is trying to rearrange. If the
human tries to ignore you by covering you with the sheets, move around and
try to mess things up. Protest loudly when you're evicted.
Suitcases always mean that your human is about to abandon you, so it is
important to prolong the packing process as much as possible. As soon as it
is opened up, jump in and curl up for a nap or chase your tail and/or attack
items put inside. It is of paramount importance to shed as much hair as
possible during the Hampering process to make sure other Cats (and humans)
know that your human is already owned.
Laundry presents many opportunities to Hamper (hence the other name for
the laundry basket--the laundry hamper). Laundry fresh from the dryer is a
perfect bed, since it is warm and soft. As soon as it is put on the bed for
sorting, arrange yourself for a nap. If the human removes you, keep
returning until the laundry isn't warm anymore. Now it's play time. Pounce
on anything the human tries to move around for folding, especially socks and
nylons. For added fun, grab a sock and hide under the bed.
When a human is working at a computer, s/he isn't paying attention to
you. Fortunately, this problem is easy to remedy. You can easily obstruct
the human's view of the screen with your beautiful tail, or if it's low
enough, with your even more beautiful body. Trampling on the keyboard is
always good for some attention as well. Pay special attention to the keys
marked "Esc", "Del", and "Brk". If you need to nap while supervising your
human, good places are the keyboard, on top of the plastic thing with the
cord that the humans laughably call a "mouse", or on the human's arms. If
the human insists on removing you from these choice locations, there's
always the lap. If possible, while in the lap try to drape yourself on one
of the human's arms.
High-tech devices create the possibilities for high-tech Hampering, such
as the computer example above. Many of the humans' entertainment devices
like TVs, VCRs, and stereos have flat rectangular doodads with lots of
buttons on them called "remote controls", which are often left on coffee
tables which are part of your patrol rounds. You can do the obvious (i.e.
hide them), but it is a well-established fact that all those little buttons
are great for massaging your feet. Be sure to trample them thoroughly for
the best effect! If they are pointed towards the things they control, you
can also get the machines to turn on, make timer lights flash, generally
scramble things up, and in short, Hamper! Sometimes your actions will have
undesirable side effects, such as a sudden, terrifying blast of noise from
a stereo or TV (which may lead to a terrifying blast of noise from the
humans, especially if you do this in the early morning!). If this happens,
run and hide under the bed and wait it out. Answering machines are also good
to walk on. Trampling on certain buttons will make interesting things
happen, and possibly Hamper by making messages disappear.
Guidelines for where to sit or lie down.
It is considered bad form to lie on the bare floor, couch, or bed.
An exception is made for the human's favorite chair, which you are
allowed to sit on no matter what (or who) is there.
On a bed, there will often be laundry or clothes lying there. It is
your duty to lie on them to get your beautiful fur on them. If there is
a choice, choose either the cleanest item or the item which contrasts
most strongly with your fur. If your human protests, act cute.
It is also your duty to lie in an area that makes your human contort
to the greatest extent if s/he wishes to share the bed/couch with you.
Even resting on a book or a newspaper on the floor is preferable to
just lying on the floor. Newspapers are particularly important to sleep
on if your human has them on the floor for his/her reading convenience.
Select a chair to sleep on that Hampers your human the most. For
example, if your human is doing a craft on the kitchen table to prevent
your interference, it is your duty to take a nap on the chair your human
would like to be sitting in. No other chair at the kitchen table will
do.
If kicked off any preferred seating, it is of critical importance
that you not immediately go about your business. You must either sit
still for a time, washing yourself to save face, or lie on the floor to
make your human feel guilty, and let him know you're waiting for the
chair. If the human cheats by moving your resting chair and/or sitting
in a different one (in a situation such as the kitchen table example
above), you may be able to continue Hampering by jumping into the
human's lap. If the human has to get up to get something, and dumps you
off (if you've elected to take the lap option), immediately occupy the
chair, curl up to enjoy the warmth, and look smug. Of course, the human
will just switch chairs or throw you off again. This game can be played
for hours.
7. SCRATCHING POSTS
It is advised that Cats use any scratching post the humans may provide.
They are very protective of what they think is their property and will
object strongly if they catch you sharpening your claws on it. Being sneaky
and doing it when they aren't around won't help, as they are very observant.
If you are an outdoor kitty, trees are good. Sharpening your claws on a
human is a definite no-no! Some humans come equipped with "jeans", which can
be scratched without inflicting too much injury. Attempts to climb up them
will result in further attention, albeit perhaps not the kind you wish.
8. THE VACUUM CLEANER
This appalling Beast is known by many names, Cat Eater being the most
prevalent. Normally pliable, agreeable humans will turn into raging monsters
while under Its influence, running around the house sucking up all the
carefully shed Cat hair and terrorizing the feline residents with evil glee.
Nothing can stop It until the influence is over and the foul device is put
back into Its closet. All you can do is run and hide when you hear the
engine roar to life and hope that It doesn't find you. On some occasions,
however, the humans are forced to open up the vacuum cleaner and remove a
swollen, dusty bag from within. This is Its stomach, and must be destroyed
if you can get the chance. Do not worry if the human yells at you, for the
yell is really that of the Beast in pain.
9. DOORS
To get a door opened, stand on your hind legs and hammer it with your
forepaws and/or yowl. Once the door is opened, it is not necessary to use
it. After you have ordered an "outside" door opened, stand halfway in and
out and think about several things. This is particularly important during
very cold weather, rain, snow, or mosquito season. Protest if the human uses
a foot to "encourage" you to leave. Sometimes doors can be opened by Cats
without the aid of humans. Such doors must be kept open for the Cat(s) to
investigate within at any time. Swinging doors are to be avoided at all
costs; their nickname "Tail-Biter" tells it all.
If a human goes into a room, especially the bathroom, and closes the door
to exclude a Cat, meow pathetically and try to stick your paws under the
door to open it. If the human relents, lets you in and then closes the door,
immediately demand to be let out. If the human lets you out and closes the
door, immediately demand to be let in again. This is especially fun when
it's the bathroom and there are guests. This game can be played until the
human wises up and hoses you with a squirt gun. Scuttle out of range and
wash yourself, to pretend that the assault on your Dignity didn't happen.
If a door that is usually kept closed, such as a closet door, is opened,
you must immediately rush in to investigate to see if anything has changed
since the last time you were in there. Resist the human's attempts to remove
you before you have completed your investigation. Protest loudly when the
human removes you anyways.
10. DRAWERS
As with doors, drawers represent Restrictions to Freedom of Access.
Although sometimes a clever Cat can figure out how to open a door, opening
drawers is almost impossible and must be done by a human. Any drawer that
can be opened by a Cat, of course, must be on a regular basis, especially if
it's a dresser drawer, since they provide comfy beds for naps. Needless to
say, when a drawer is opened, it is imperative that its contents be
investigated for items which are potentially edible, toys and/or comfortable
resting places. Dresser drawers must also have their contents "pre-haired",
i.e. the clean clothes must have Cat hair deposited on them before they are
even worn, just in case the humans are able to get out of the house in the
morning without the Cat being able to shed on them.
As soon as you hear a drawer open, immediately rush to the scene and jump
in. If the human removes you, be persistent, since every time you get picked
up, you shed some hair. This is best if it can be done with a partner -- one
jumps in as the other is removed. Do your best to rearrange the contents of
clothing drawers by playing "Find the Mouse" as far back as you can reach.
Scratch yourself vigorously to deposit the required hair. This is an
excellent form of early-morning HAMPERING
(see above)!
A Hide-and-Seek game can be played if a human is distracted by something
and leaves a drawer open. Burrow in as far as you can and make yourself at
home. If the human doesn't see you when he comes back and closes the drawer,
the game begins. It is especially effective in filing cabinets where there
are often large empty spaces behind all the papers where you can't be seen.
After a few minutes, start yowling loudly so that the human will want to
find you. With the right projections, you can keep the human searching for
several minutes before he/she thinks of looking in the dresser or filing
cabinet. When revealed, glower at the human reproachfully and jump out with
as much Dignity as you can muster. Be sure to leave plenty of hair behind.
The first recorded instance in the literature was with a Cat named Pandora
who kept her humans looking for her for a couple of days!
11. HUMANS
Humans have three primary functions: to feed us, to play with and give
attention to us, and to clean the litter box. It is important to maintain
one's Dignity when around humans so that they will not forget who is the
master of the house.
One way to keep your human healthy is through agility training. You can
do this by running ahead of your human, maintaining a distance of about one
and a half of the human's paces, and suddenly stopping to clean yourself. If
the human doesn't trip over or boot you (a very real hazard, especially from
beginner humans), s/he is fit and able to avoid all sorts of danger in
his/her world. A bonus from this exercise is that the sight of the human
will be very amusing and you can share the experience with your friends on
the back fence.
11.1 WAKING THEM UP
It is not known why humans like to sleep when it gets dark, just when the
day is young and the masters of the house are fresh and ready for play. It
is known, however, that sleeping humans are boring to be around and that
they occasionally must be roused to attend to our needs, such as to get
fresh food or water or to retrieve a toy that was batted under the sofa.
Almost all of them strongly dislike being dragged out of bed in their
so-called "wee hours". Some will even pretend to be asleep even when we know
they're not, hoping we'll give up and go away. Persistence is the key to
success in any case.
One effective method of rejuvenating a dormant human is the "direct
approach", namely jumping on the bed and doing one or more of the following:
trampling, licking and/or nibbling any exposed parts, pulling hair (or
clawing the bald spot), purring, meowing, head-butting, light taps on the
eyes, or playing "Catch Mouse" or "King of the Hill". If the human tries to
hide under the covers, s/he is now a huge Bed Mouse (see
GAMES) and can be treated accordingly.
This may only result in your being ejected from the bed, but at least you
now have the human's attention.
If the human is being stubborn, you may have to resort to more drastic
tactics, such as ripping down posters, rattling blinds, knocking over and
looting a wastebasket, knocking items off the dresser, singing at the top of
your voice, or even curling up on the human's head (often the only visible
part). As well as being warm, in this way you will be aware of any movement
made by the human, probably even before he is aware of it. You will be
unlikely to wait for long. Another effective tactic is to jump, walk or
knead on the human's abdomen, where the bladder is located. If the human
hasn't been to the Big White Drinking Bowl during the night you can be sure
of a rapid response. Eventually the human will get up and do what you want,
usually employing some bad language while doing so.
WARNING: It is not advised to do this on a regular basis. It will very
likely result in your being "banished" from and denied access to the bedroom
altogether, in which case it becomes much more difficult to get them to respond
to your wishes. Thumping the door or yowling may be initially effective, but
will likely result in being further banished to the basement or even the kitty
carrier! Discretion is thus strongly recommended.
Of course, if the human gets up on his own in the wee hours to go to the
bathroom, you are free to get him to do your bidding while he is too sleepy to
put up much resistance.
11.2 MORNINGS
In order to provide and care for you, the humans must leave the domain
every morning (usually before you take your first Cat nap). To help them on
their way, either yowl loudly, massage their scalps with your claws, gently
bounce on top of them in bed, knead their chests, purr, and/or drool on
them. See also WAKING THEM UP. The
best time to do this is about 24 minutes before their clock begins to blare
or ring. We must protect them from the noise because it could ruin their
sense of hearing.
On some mornings, usually on the days the humans call Saturday and
Sunday, the humans often want to stay in bed longer than usual. They resist
attempts to rouse them more than ever. They will reluctantly get up to feed
us and then return to bed, hoping that we will leave them alone. This should
not be allowed. Sleeping humans are essentially ignoring us, which is a Bad
Thing, so once you have eaten your breakfast, continue your campaign to get
them out of bed. See WAKING THEM UP.
11.3 GUESTS
Quickly determine which guest hates (or is allergic to) Cats the most.
Sit on that lap. If you can arrange for particularly bad "tuna breath" (or
extra dander), so much the better.
For sitting on laps or rubbing against trouser legs, select fabric which
contrasts well with your fur. For example: white-furred Cats go to black
wool clothing. NOTE: Velvet takes precedence over all other cloth.
For the guest who exclaims, "I love kitties!", be ready with aloof
disdain, apply claws to stockings or arms, or use a quick nip on the ankle.
When walking among the dishes on the dinner table, be prepared to look
surprised and hurt when scolded. The idea is to force your humans to reveal
that they tolerate this behavior when company is not there.
Always accompany guests to the bathroom. It is not necessary to do
anything -- just sit and stare.
11.4 LAPS
Undoubtedly THE best way to get attention from a human is to jump in
his/her lap and purr. Few humans can resist because it makes them think you
like them (which may even be true!). Ear scratches, belly rubs, back
stroking: all these and more can be yours. Some Cats like this treatment a
little TOO much and acquire the silly name "Lap Fungus". Lap sessions also
provide golden opportunities for shedding--be sure to take advantage of
clothes which contrast with your fur (see also GUESTS). Unfortunately, humans have the annoying tendency to
want to get up to do their mundane activities, like answering the thing that
rings or going to the Big White Drinking Bowl. Protest this disturbance with
accusing looks and plaintive meows. Some laps may require "softening up"
with a little kneading; just be sure not to use the claws or you may have an
unexpected flying lesson!
11.5 CONFUSING THEM
Humans (for the most part) love order and predictability. They especially
like what they think are their pets to be predictable. So if you are in the
mood to indulge in a little low-risk mischief, behaving irrationally is an
excellent option. The usual method is to simply tear around the house at top
speed talking to yourself and perhaps launching a frenzied attack on an
unsuspecting toy. If there are two or more Cats in the household, you can
take turns chasing and wrestling with each other. This is usually good for a
shake of the head from the human, along with "Crazy Cat(s)" muttered under
his/her breath.
Another way to baffle the humans is to interrupt your passage across a
carpet (at whatever velocity) with a sudden vertical leap into the air. Then
continue on as if nothing had happened. If you're skilled enough, you may be
able to convince the human(s) that there are "rug worms" in the house. A
third way, which isn't quite as fun as the others but which tends to get
better reactions from the humans, is to stare fixedly at a blank wall,
turned-off TV, corner of the room, or whatever, and pretend to carry on a
conversation with another Cat. The humans, who may already be convinced that
you're from outer space, will think you're talking to your friends, the
"Jupiter People". If they start talking about mailing you to Mars, it's a
good idea to lay off this prank for a while.
11.6 ORGANIZATION
Let's face it, humans are a disorganized lot. They need constant
supervision in order to get things done right and on time, such as feeding
their masters, retrieving lost toys, etc. Humans also need assistance in
keeping their masters' home organized. They have to be continually reminded
that things belong on the floor, not on shelves, bookcases, tables or
dressers where accessing them may be inconvenient for their masters. It will
be up to you to keep your household properly organized. Feel free to take
items such as pens, buttons, waste paper (such as the stuff they call "tax
return"), and unsuitable toys and relocate them to better spots, such as the
water bowl, under the stove, or down the hot-air ducts (humans are always
grateful if you do this with tax returns). This should be done when the
humans aren't around, as they will always interfere. When the human
discovers your handiwork, he will praise you with such words as "Damned
Cat!" and "You little monster!"; however this praise is usually best
accepted from under the bed until the human finds something else to get
excited about.
11.7 SUBSTITUTES
Occasionally your humans will want to go away on a "vacation" or "trip"
and, knowing that you hate traveling, will want to leave you behind. The
choice of boarding at the vet's or a kennel is to be avoided at all costs,
which implies that you have to find another human in the neighborhood who
will be willing to look after you when your humans are away. This is usually
not hard to do when you're able to patrol the neighborhood, but if you're a
house or apartment Cat, you'll be stuck with whatever human your humans can
find.
In most respects, the substitute performs the same functions as the
regular human, i.e. feeding, changing the litter box, and perhaps even
playing with you. Since most substitutes don't know your feeding habits, try
extra hard to get more food. A few minutes after you've cleaned out your
dish, go into "feed me" mode again. Be especially piteous, using the Big
Soulful Eyes, low moans, extra head-butting and rubbing, Meaningful Stares
at the empty dish, and all the other tricks that sometimes work on your more
hard-hearted regular humans.
If the substitute performs poorly, like showing up late for your feeding
times, let your regular humans know your displeasure with the usual
punishment, like wetting the bath mat, clawing furniture, etc.
12. VETS AND MEDICINE
The vet is the person to whom your human will take you when you are sick. The
place smells funny, there are usually other Cats and dogs in the waiting room,
and awful things like needles and pill prescriptions will happen there. The
usual result is that you will get better, which is good, but you just can't let
those humans Cathandle you. The following are some tips for dealing with vets
and medicine.
Unless you are really sick, when you see the carrier come out, run and
hide somewhere inaccessible, such as under the bed or behind a couch. Once
the human finally grabs you, struggle gamely. Splay your legs out so that it
is difficult to cram you into the carrier. If the human is trying to put you
in with another Cat, try to allow the other Cat to bolt out the door. In the
car, meow plaintively all the way down to the vet's. If possible, reach
through the bars of the portable prison and try to claw the human as s/he
drives. At the vet's, splay your legs and brace yourself against the
carrier's walls if you can so that they can't dump you out easily.
If you are well enough, you must resist attempts to feed you pills or
any liquid medicine. As soon as you hear the pill bottle rattle, hide as in
part a). Resist attempts to open your mouth. Squirming is good. Once the
medicine is in, try to spit it out, preferably by shaking your head
vigorously. If the humans manage to get the pill into to your mouth and are
still holding you waiting for you to spit it out, swallow, but keep the pill
in your mouth. Then after being let go, find a suitable hiding place and
spit it out. Make sure that the humans do not find the hiding place, so they
think that you took the pill. Don't use the same hiding place twice. Refuse
any food that looks or smells like it may have had medicine sprinkled on it.
Unfortunately, humans can be REALLY unfair and put it in tuna. In this case,
accept grudgingly. Look aggrieved after the medicine session is over.
13. ILLNESS
If you have to throw up, get to a chair quickly. If you cannot manage in
time, get to an Oriental rug. If there is no Oriental rug, shag is good.
When throwing up on the carpet, make sure you back up so that it is as long
as the human's bare foot.
When you get sick in the house, you should hover around the general area
until a human spots the mess. You should act as if you are guarding the
stuff for the human and then quickly vacate the room.
If taken outside, you should take every opportunity to scarf down as
much grass as possible (while not being spotted). After ingesting a
"critical mass" amount, whine and scratch at the door to be let back in the
house. After entering the house head for the traditional illness locations
and let it rip.
If the urge strikes at night when your human is asleep, you can retch as
loudly as possible so that the human will wake up. That failing, choose a
location where the human's bare foot is likely to find it. They don't see
very well in the morning and need assistance in locating the mess. If the
human has neglected you by leaving, cover the fruits of your labors with
whatever is handy, such as papers from the desk. That way you can soil
another object besides the carpet.
14. CAT "CLUBS"
When a group of humans who share a similar interest get together on a
regular basis, it is often called a "club". Needless to say, Cats thought of
the idea first, and some of the cleverer humans have discovered that we have
our own. Listed below are the ones that the humans have identified, along
with their names for the clubs; for security reasons (in case this document
falls into the hands of a human) the ones they haven't identified have not
been listed. As with humans, Cats are not restricted to membership in one
club and may belong to many. Each entry consists of a brief description of
typical club members, the average human's reaction to a member's activities,
nicknames for club members, and the club's motto.
- The "Bed Hog" Club
- Cats who are members of this club like to sleep on their humans' bed. Of
course, in order to sleep comfortably a Cat needs some room and it is often
necessary to push the sleeping humans around a bit to make it, especially if
there are two humans and/or two or more Cats. In households with more than
one club member, skilled Cats who cooperate can make the humans resemble
pretzels (which are great snacks, by the way) by morning or even fall out of
the bed entirely. Some members of the Club have figured out how to maximize
their comfort by immobilizing sleeping humans so that their tossing and
turning does not disturb the Cats. The tactic requires two Cats, both of
which should be relatively mass-enhanced (never "fat"!) who should settle on
the covers on either side of the human, effectively restricting movement.
This is not viable if the human likes to sleep near the side of the bed!
Human reactions: cuddling, nocturnal yoga positions, expulsion of
Cats.
Nicknames: Big Lump, Extra Blanket, Bed Warmer.
Club motto: "Move over, you big lummox!"
-
- The "Chatterbox" Club
- Members of this club love to talk to their humans, giving advice and/or
criticism on practically anything they do. They are convinced that given
enough time, they will be able to teach even the densest human how to take
verbal commands.
Human reactions: "No comments from the peanut gallery!", "Shaddap!"
Nicknames: Motormouth, Blabbermouth, Noisy, Backtalk.
Club motto: "What do you mean, shut up?"
-
- The "Door Into Summer" Club
- This Club mainly performs its activities during the cold months or when
it is raining. After a human obeys the master's command to open a door and a
blast of cold air fills the room or rain splashes the Cat, the Cat wrinkles
his/her nose and walks away. The ritual continues at each door in the house
(sometimes including closets) until the human either kicks the Cat out the
door, or decides to ignore the Cat altogether. In the first case, the Cat
must bounce up to the window and squawk to be let in while looking as
pathetic as possible. In the second, the Cat must attempt to make the human
want to let him/her out. Human reactions: Annoyance, foot under the
butt to fling you out anyways.
Nicknames: Waffler, Stupid Cat, Politician.
Club motto: "Just because it's nasty out front doesn't mean it is at
the back."
-
- The "Early Breakfast" Club
- Cats belonging to this club love to walk into their human's bedroom at
some early hour, say, 3 a.m. They then awaken the human insisting on being
fed. These Cats believe that their humans can be trained to be awake during
prime play time. Be aware, however, that humans are stubborn and may instead
lock Cats out of the bedroom, squirt them or do other anti-social things
instead of feeding them.
Human reactions: Grogginess, ignoring, throwing things, general
hostility.
Nicknames: Pest Kitty, various expletives
Club motto: "Life begins after midnight."
-
- The "Elephant Cat" Club
- It is usual but not necessary for there to be more than one member of
this club per household. "Elephant" Cats for some perverse reason enjoy
making their nocturnal games, such as "Kibble Soccer", "Tag", and "Rumpus
Raising" as noisy as possible by thundering around home and knocking things
over or off the tables, counters, etc. They believe that half the fun is
getting the human to participate too.
Human Reactions: Throwing things, squirting, chasing, shouting.
Nicknames: Bigfoot, Thunderball, Godzilla Cat, Light Brigade.
Club motto: "Did you see the look on his face when..."
-
- The Fraidy Cat Club
- To this club belong the Cats of nervous and/or neurotic disposition. Any
strange object or human is to be treated as a mortal danger until it is
absolutely certain it isn't dangerous. They even have to keep an eye on the
humans they know, just in case. These Cats know all of the good hiding spots
in the house/apartment, including the ones that humans swear no Cat could
fit into, and are generally of little use to anybody except when it is
checkup time at the vet's and it is important to be invisible.
Human Reactions: Laughter, dragging from under the bed, cruel jokes.
Nicknames: Coward, Mr/Ms Invisible, Spooky, Furry Chicken.
Club motto: "Yeek! What's THAT?"
-
- The "Garbage Truck" Club
- Members of this club firmly believe that human food is God's gift to
Cats and that the kitchen and/or dining room are the centre of the universe.
Anything that falls onto the floor is to be eaten immediately, and if the
Cat can contrive to encourage the human to share voluntarily, so much the
better. Hopping onto the counter to clean the plates or getting into the
garbage can to check for leftovers are both considered acceptable, and the
Master Garbage Truck is the one who can do this without getting squirted or
otherwise "punished" by the humans.
Human Reactions: Squirting, chasing, throwing things, ejection
outside.
Nicknames: Stomach with Legs, Garburator, Bottomless Pit, Greedo,
Oinker, Treat-Seeking Missile.
Club motto: "I'll help you eat that!"
-
- The Heat-Seeking Missile Club
- These Cats believe in keeping warm at all costs. The best method is to
lie right up against the heating vent. Make sure all the warm air is
absorbed into your fur. Careful grooming will be necessary to prevent a bad
dandruff problem. When the heat is not running, more creative solutions must
be found. Caving into the Cat bed, human bed, or any afghan or blanket
available is good. It's best if the blanket was already mounded up, so that
the Cat is completely invisible underneath. As a last resort, curl up on a
lap or with another Cat.
Human Reactions: Indifference, "Where'd all this Cat hair come from?"
Nicknames Comfort Creature, Hot Stuff.
Club motto: "It's cold out there!"
-
- The Hedonist Club
- Members of this club (and it is a very large one!) firmly believe that
they can do whatever they want to and that no rules, human or otherwise,
should apply to them. If they're hungry, they want food NOW; if they want to
be petted it had better be NOW; no area should be "off limits", including
counters and dressers; and so on. Attempts to discipline Hedonists will have
no effect at all, no matter how draconian the punishment or how soaked the
Cat gets from repeated squirting. Closed doors are a Great Affront to
Hedonists who view them as a Restriction of Freedom. This includes
cupboards, cabinets, and closets.
Human Reactions: Shouting, swearing, chasing, squirting, ejection
from house.
Nicknames You Little Monster, Menace To Society, various expletives.
Club motto: "No? What does that mean?"
-
- The "Hiyo Silver!" Club
- Cats who belong to this club have discovered that riding on their
human's shoulders is a good, albeit somewhat precarious, way of staying with
and supervising the human, as well as a free source of transportation. Since
humans are much taller than Cats, shoulders also provide an excellent launch
point for otherwise inaccessible areas like high shelves which often have
things on them which must be investigated for potential as toys and/or food.
Getting on the shoulders is the easy part; directing the human to where you
want to go (i.e. the shelves) is not, especially if the human has figured
out that you want to go there and deliberately avoids it. Sadly, there is no
way to direct them, so it is best to just climb on and hope the human's
activities naturally lead him or her to your desired destination. Be careful
about using claws! Though the human expects a certain amount of claws due to
your needs to maintain balance, excessive use will lead to unceremonious
dumping. So will too-frequent attempts to hamper, such as ear nibbling, hair
chewing, swatting with the tail, or changing positions, as well as being
"too fat".
Human Reactions: Petting, scratching, dumping, "I am not a perch!".
Nicknames: (Cat fur color) Rider, High-Jumper.
Club motto: Move a bit closer to that shelf!
-
- The "Lap Fungus" Club
- Members of this club specialize in enslaving humans for the purpose of
sleeping on their laps. As soon as a human is seated, his/her lap becomes
available and should be occupied at once, after which time the Cat can get
as much attention as s/he wants.
Human Reactions: Petting, scratching, acceptance, reluctance to get
up.
Nicknames: Cuddler, Blanket Substitute, Shedding Machine.
Club motto: "Sit down and I'll be your friend."
-
- The Lazy Slug Club
- Membership in this club consists primarily of Cats who have passed the
prime of their lives, and now regard being active as something to be avoided
and inertness as an art form. A member's favorite game is "Snooze". Any activity consists primarily of moving from one
favorite sleeping spot to another, or to the litter box or food dish, though
the occasional fit of playfulness is usually unavoidable due to the energy
that does slowly build up. Humans usually refer (in a less than respectful
manner) to members as Lap Fungus, Couch Fungus, or [insert any approximately
horizontal surface] Fungus. This sort of lese-majeste should earn a human a
shredding, but few members can be bothered to do more than glower balefully
or twitch the tail.
Human Reactions: Incredulity, checking for signs of life.
Nicknames: Lump, Obstacle, Still Life.
Club motto: "Zzzzz".
15. BAD WEATHER
Bad weather, in the form of rain, snow, and/or excessive cold or heat, is
always the fault of the humans. If the weather is inclement when the human
opens the door to let you out, back away hastily and try another door. Be
sure to stare accusingly at the human during this session. If all doors have
the same bad weather and you manage not to get booted out, hop onto a window
sill and gaze mournfully out at your domain. Then try again in about half an
hour. See also, The Door Into Summer Club
16. ON KITTENHOOD
Being a kitten is probably the best time of a Cat's life. As a kitten,
you can do almost anything and get away with it because, as the humans say,
"Aww, (s)he's so cute!" Practice the "butter won't melt in my mouth" Look of
Total Innocence now, as it is much more effective than when you are
full-grown and "should know better". Even if you are caught in the act of
some mischief, the Look can can considerably reduce the scolding, and if
mixed with the appropriate amount of fake penitence, get you picked up and
cuddled.
Be sure to make full use of all your excess energy by tearing around the
house at full speed, attacking anything that moves, climbing the drapes,
scooting across tables, counters and shelves, taste-testing plants and
cords, and generally driving the humans crazy. When exhausted, flop down
anywhere comfortable and sleep. After waking up, eat and continue the fun!
You will quickly learn that night-time is the best time for playing because
so many things can hide in the shadows.
17. TERRITORY MARKING
When marking your territory (spraying or plain urinating), make sure that
it is in a place which the human *must* notice, such as the middle of the
bed, on wallpaper, or against the fabric of a sofa or chair. Marking your
territory is important if the human is silly enough to bring "company" for
you inside the house. YOU are king of the household, not the human, and if
the human has any Catsense at all, it will know this. Also, if the human has
washed the blanket or other item which you have marked, be sure to wait a
couple of days, and mark the item again in the very same place.
18. DOGS
As a species, dogs are animals which are in every way inferior to Cats.
They are noisy, smelly, dirty, totally dependent on humans, and stupid (have
you ever seen a Cat tangle with a skunk at all, let alone more than once?).
Unfortunately, they are also for the most part larger than Cats. They are
aware of their inferiority and quite resentful of it, using their greater
size to harass Cats by chasing and/or barking at them at any opportunity in
feeble attempts to make themselves appear superior to their betters.
Dog-baiting can be a vastly entertaining sport if the dog is safely tied up
in its yard or inside its human's house. A Cat with nerves of steel can
perch on a window sill and wash him/herself while the dog within hurls
itself at the window on the other side in a frenzy of rage. Of course,
should the human inside let the dog out, said Cat had better have somewhere
to run for shelter! Of course, this is not to say that Cats and dogs can't
be friends or even live with the same humans, especially if both are raised
from birth with each other, but these are exceptions. If you are on friendly
terms with other cats, you can cooperate with them in dog-baiting to lure
the dumb beast into a spot where you can all beat it up together. This can
be risky if the dog is large and of a nasty temperament, so judge your
target carefully!
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